Domaine Chandon de Briailles
This is probably the top domaine in and around the villages of Savigny-les-Beane and Pernand-Vergelesses. In addition, they have holdings in Aloxe-Corton, Corton and Corton-Charlemagne.
Possessing thirteen hectares in all, the vineyards have been farmed organically for the past 10 years, and the results from this effort are now in full bloom. The earth is coming back to life in Burgundy after so many years of abuse from pesticides, herbicides and fungicides. The result here, under the direction of Claude Drouhin and François de Nicolay (sister & brother), is fruit that is rich, but maintains excellent acidity levels. It was the dropping acidity levels, which led many producers to forego their chemical vineyard treatments for a cleaner, healthier system of vineyard management. Yields here average only 35 hectoliters per hectare.
At this domaine, there is no new oak used. They prefer to purchase 1-2 year old barrels from other top domaines in northern Burgundy. This enables the pure Chardonnay and Pinot Noir fruit to come forward, un-muddled by strong oak flavors. In addition, the elusive terroir, which is everything in Burgundy, is allowed to come through. In fact, tasting several wines at a time from producers like Chandon de Briailles is the best way for the uninitiated to grasp the meaning of terroir, the French term that refers to the impact that specific soil, weather and site have on the final wine.
Red wines are fermented in open concrete tanks where the maximum fermentation temperatures are controlled at 32°C. Depending on the vintage, some stems are left in (whole clusters) during the fermentation, and pumping over and punching down the cap takes place twice a day.
White wines are all barrel fermented after settling for twenty four hours in stainless steel tanks. Fermentation temperatures are kept below 22°C.
All wines are barrel aged from 18-24 months depending on the year and the structure of the wine. They are never filtered although in some years, a light fining with egg whites is necessary to stabilize the wine and fix the color.
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